The Random Wanderer

It’s impossible for your first impression of Istanbul not to be the sheer size of the city. Having landed at Istanbul Sabiha Gokcen International Airport, it took me 50 minutes by car to reach my accommodation in the Beyoğlu district of central Istanbul. However, for the entire journey, the road is surrounded on all sides by high-rise accommodation blocks. Whether it’s the Istanbul of the modern era, Constantinople of the Ottoman era or Byzantium of the Eastern Roman Empire, this vast city has always been the meeting place of peoples and culture. It is for this very reason I found myself in Istanbul, to meet the people from different places around the world who still frequent the city.

This results in an abundant mix of culture and history which is clear to be seen in the all main attractions of the city. In Sultanahmet, the central area of the Fatih District, the Hagia Sofia, the vast old Byzantine Church, later converted to a Mosque, which sits opposite the Blue Mosque, built on the site of the old palace of the Eastern Roman Emperor. Some old Byzantine monuments stand next to relics of the Ottoman Empire, this is the theme of the city. In this area, you’ll also find the Topkapı Palace, the residence of the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire for the majority of the Empire’s existence. The palace is unlike any other found throughout Europe, the architecture is simply unique, the colours and artistry of the mosaics are beautiful, and the gardens are unique in a wonderful way with great views across the Bosphorus (even if some people don’t have the ability to open their eyes when photos are being taken).

If you don’t know much about the history of Turkey, I recommend reading “Turkey: A Short History” by Norman Stone before visiting Istanbul. The book gives a light introduction to the history of Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire and Turkey. I knew very little about the region before visiting Istanbul and reading this book definitely allowed me to get more out of the main attractions of the city.

Throughout the rest of the Fatih District, the history of the city can be physically seen as if a time capsule. The Grand Bazaar is perhaps the best example of this. The bazaar is 567 years old and the endless corridors of shops selling everything from leather to carpets to spices stand out as the place to have a true glimpse into the past of this great trading centre of the old world.

The Fatih district itself does feel rather touristy, which is far from my favourite thing in the world. However, the treasures of the old city do make up for this. The only thing in my experience to be aware of in this district is it’s rather large, much larger than it seems. This is very much a lesson I learned the hard way. In search of a beach, which doesn’t seem to really exist I walked down the hill to the coast from the Grand Bazaar and found only a road and a fence. Subsequently, instead of walking back the way I’d come, I believed I would find what I wanted… I was wrong, instead, I ended up walking around a not particularly beautiful coastal road for a few kilometres circumventing the old Sultanahmet area. Therefore, if I could recommend anything from my experience in Fatih it is to stay at the top of the hill unless you know where you are going.

Across the Golden Horn from the Sultanahmet is the Beyoğlu district, built around and including the old Genoese trading town of Galata (now called Karaköy). It is in this region of the city that I stayed, in an Airbnb with a great view of the historic Galata Tower on one side and the Bosphorus on the other. I can’t quite explain how much I love a good terrace. The more blogs I write, the more obvious this will become but this was one of the best, although not quite sure why I thought taking photos into the sun would be a cool idea, but there we go.

The Beyoğlu district in general was my prefered area in central Istanbul. The streets are lined with lots of small independent cafes. Every morning I went to the Papadoupolous Cafe (situated on Lüleci Hendek Cd.) for breakfast, simply because they served comfortably the best omelette I’ve ever eaten. There are other cafes situated all around Beyoğlu, I’d simply recommend wandering around the district and you’ll stumble upon some great little places. That being said, as well as Papadoupolous Cafe breakfasts, I’d recommend Cesme Art Cafe close to Galata Tower which has a nice little art gallery inside as well as a really pleasant shaded outside seated area, it’s just a great place to escape the chaos around you. I’d also recommend Galata Kahvesi, where I had my favourite Kofte Kebab and some very interesting teas, a cute cafe situated in an alley just off the road on the walk up the hill towards İstiklal Caddesi.

It’s in the cafes and restaurants, where you can get a real feel for the city, from the cats constantly creeping up on you (see a slightly shocked Nastya in the photos), to drinking Raki with locals and simply watching the world go by.

I’m well aware that the places I went to in Istanbul are quite touristy, however, I really enjoyed my time there. The city is vast and I’ve been recommended to visit other areas by people who know the city much better than myself. Perhaps my biggest regret is that I wasn’t able to visit Kadıköy, or any areas of the Asian side of the city (except the Airport), which has been heavily recommended to me. I’m sure I’ll return to the city one day soon to see the things I missed. The city will always remain a crossroads for the world and will always remain a place where people can meet in a historic and beautiful environment.

Accommodation

As I was meeting people in Istanbul I did not stay in a hostel. Instead, I stayed in an Airbnb in the Beyoğlu district. As I’ve already mentioned it has a great shared rooftop terrace as well as a private balcony. The apartment itself has everything you would need and includes some cool retro furniture.

Airbnb Apartment Link – https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/52851508?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=08a38d97-6739-4fca-ba90-cb26a6662a5d

In terms of Hostels, I have heard good things about Cheers Hostel in Sultanahmet. I’ve not stayed there so do not have any personal experience. However, this is the place I would choose to stay in if I was returning and staying in a hostel. Just be aware, in summer the hostel often seems to be fully booked up a couple of weeks in advance.

Cheers Hostel Link – https://www.hostelworld.com/pwa/hosteldetails.php/Cheers-Hostel/Istanbul/37282?

Things to do

I’ve already mentioned the main things I’d recommend doing in Istanbul, however, this is a more concise definitive list: 

Hagia Sophia 

The 1600-year-old Byzantine Church turned Mosque. Possibly the most famous of Istanbul’s many attractions. Simply to see something so vast and beautiful yet built in 360AD is incredible. Just ensure that when you visit to cover your head if you are a woman and wear trousers for men.

Grand Bazaar

As I’ve already mentioned it gives a glimpse into the past and it’s possible to spend hours simply wandering around and getting lost. Emerging into little oasis-like courtyards and experiencing the history of the place.

Galata Area

I really like the area in and around the Galata Tower which itself is a major attraction. However, the cafes and the vibe of the place are what really drew me to the area. Just be aware it is incredibly hilly.

Taksim Square

I recommend taking the tram and then the funicular to Taksim Square. The square is perhaps the main square of modern Istanbul and the walk back towards Galata Tower will take you along the main commercial streets of the city. On these streets, you can shop, see some more hidden beautiful buildings such as the Church of St. Anthony of Padua and see some of the old photogenic trams.